Pamukkale and the dirty snow hill

C and I detoured (somewhat) east to visit the Cotton Castles of Pamukkale before seeing more ruins at Ephesus. The decision was a relatively easy one, as neither of us are too preoccupied with where we are going or how we will get there.  It doesn't hurt that you can't throw a rock in Turkey without hitting something historical.  Or having thrown something historical.  So we bussed from the warm climes of Antalya for the chillier, smokier, more calcified hills of Pamukkale.  It was a short jaunt for us - we arrived in the town at about 3PM, and departed the following day at 11AM.  In the afternoon we stopped by the hill and went back to our hostel for a delicious dinner and evening of backgammon and going to bed early to prepare to enjoy the sights before our morning bus out of town.  There wasn't much to Pamukkale - mostly just the ruins and the insane landscape of calcium hills, but the village had a rural Turkey feel that I enjoyed.  Here are some photos of the town, and of the madness that were the calcified hills.  Once we were on the calcium proper, we had to go barefoot - it was cold at points, and ouchy on our naked feet, but well worth the effort.

From the village - it looked like a dirty snow hill - for reals

We walked up the path - 630AM - and then the calcium starts, and the shoes come off

Air temp was about 34, but the water was pretty warm - warmer the higher we went

Most of the surface was textured - rippley, good for gripping, bad for cold feet

Maybe enlarge this one - there were cool textures though hard to capture

C in front of some steaming calcium water

There were shoots all around - the water diverted here and there with metal sheets

The main sluice above the travertines

This was a more 'natural' deposit

A Roman waterway with the pools in the background

A sarcophagus in a calcium deposit

Behind the dirty snow hill were the ruins of Heiropolis which was essentially a Roman spa / resort town where wealthy Romans would come for the healing powers of the calcium water.  Unfortunately, calcium rich water doesn't do much for a person so Heiropolis also sports an impressive necropolis.  After making our barefoot way up the travertines, Corinne and I wandered back through the Roman ruins.  Mostly, similar to Perge, the ruins provided an exciting landscape but were not much to see on their own.  It was a lovely walk, if chilly, and the combination of the ruins with the calcium rich (warm) water made for an enjoyable morning.  We even got a ride back to town by a generous cabby.  Here are some images of the ruins:

Most of the hillside had some ancient ruins on it - SOMEwhere - and the fog lent a spooky quality

A partially buried sarcophagus 

The street was in some disrepair, but not bad for 2000 years

Ruins with waterway

We headed back to our hostel - the Dort Musevm - around 930, time for hot showers and a relaxed breakfast before catching our bus to daytime bus Calcuk and Ephesus.  The buses in Turkey (which I think I mentioned earlier) are a sight to behold.  My understanding is the tourism industry took off in the early 80s - and along with it I have to guess that the bus industry, which is the only real way to travel intercity unless you fly, took off with it.  These buses are mammoth, plush affairs that offer more amenities than most airplanes I've been on.  It remains somewhat cramped, and we are at the mercy of the drivers climate preferences, but they are quite comfortable when you get down to it.  Not the best way to get a nights sleep, but certainly more comfortable than standing in a train car, and as most cities are not on the Turkish rail system, buses seem like the way to go.  The country side is lovely to watch - when we were not surrounded by fog - and most buses have a channel on their TV of what the front of the bus is facing - the road conditions, the passing cars, things along the road, etc.

It's January first - evening for me in western Turkey - C and I saw Ephesus and Calcuk (pronounced cell-chuk) today (update on that to follow).  A new year - 2011.  The new year passed somewhat like Christmas and Thanksgiving for me - turns out what makes the holiday is the ritual of family and friends - it is the Dubliner and big meals and family and Josh and I making our way into the next year without direction or any substantial cares.  New years does threaten to get introspective, but I'm gonna resist.  I'll wish my dear Mother a happy birthday - 39 again this year - young on the inside and is even considering a venture across the pond to visit.  You are most welcome!  Come on over!  I enjoyed my 2010, but I am eager for 2011.  I've followed my bliss and folly and gut and feel rewarded for it.  As always, thanks to you, reader - I've been thinking of the dozens and dozens of wonderful people in my life these past few weeks and if you are reading this chances are you have crossed my mind a few times.  I wish you the very best in your new year.  Thanks for reading!